Review: Inoherb Hua Kai Jasmine Extract Mask

This mask is one of several from Inoherb's Mid-Range 'Hua Kai' or Opening Flower Sheet Mask line. All the products feature hydrating ingredients and various flower and plant extracts.

Product Information

English Name: Jasmine Hydrating and Brightening Sheet Mask
Chinese Name: 茉莉花水润透亮面膜

Price: ¥69 for 5, ¥14 each ($10 and $2 respectively at the time of writing)
Content in Packet: 1 Mask with peal paper and 25 ml of essence 

Ingredients list from CosDNA

Ingredients list on packaging

The back of the packet

Overview: One-step booster for dry, dull skin. Can also reduce inflammation and irritation.

How to use: After cleansing and toning, remove the mask from packet and peel off the pearl paper. Place mask on face, lining it up with your eyes, nose and mouth. It is recommended to take the mask off after 15-20 minutes.

Review

This mask came in a free 8 mask sample box with a purchase several weeks ago. I don't sheet mask on a regular basis like some do, but I prefer to do it every 2 weeks or before an important event. I decided to get around to testing this mask a few days ago because I have nothing important coming up, so in the event that the test went horribly I would have a while to recover.

The mask is a single packed mask with pearl paper soaked in a generous amount of flower-fragranced essence. The fit is wide and the mask itself is made out of soft cotton.

The essence is non-irritating and contains a number of beneficial ingredients in addition to the plant essences:

• Glycerin/Glycerol- Humectant
• Sodium Hyaluronate/Hyaluronic Acid- superior humectant
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate- Anti-irritant, may reduce inflammation and possibly acne
• Aloe Vera- Soothing

However, there is one ingredient that stuck out. Sclerotium Rolfsii is a fungus that attacks crops, and it seems that something like that has no place in a cosmetic product. However, it produces a crosspolymer thickening agent called Sclerotium Gum when it is part of a glucose-based fermentation process, and it seems safe for skin application. 

The mask's smell is rather strong, similar to MBD masks, so this won't be a good choice for someone who is sensitive to strongly fragranced products. I don't mind it too much, although there were moments when the breeze from my fan hit me in the face, causing the mask's fragrance to diffuse wildly into the air.

However, the mask was very hydrating and I noticed a brightening effect the next day. The mask is very sticky even after applying the rest of my routine so if you sheet mask in the morning or during the day, this mask may not be good for those purposes unless you're sure that you don't want to go outside. For nighttime purposes, though, this mask is very suitable.

Buying Guide

Official Tmall  (Not Available currently)

Inoherb Website

Available in supermarkets and drugstores individually or in packs of 5

Buying Guide: Hada Labo Shirojyun Lotion

Part of this blog's purpose is to provide guidance on how to obtain foreign products in China. While I'm advocating for the tolerance and acceptance of Chinese skincare products, I recognize that there are certain products that are irreplaceable for some, or have no Chinese equivalent. Such products include chemical exfoliants (AHA, BHA) and actives. In every International Buying Guide, I'll do my best to reference products with similar effects to the product in question.

The Hada Labo Shirojyun Lotion is a Lotion Toner that contains 2 kinds of Hyaluronic acid, Arbutin and a Vitamin C derivative to hydrate and brighten skin. This lotion does not bleach skin, and I will never advocate the use of bleachers, nor will I link to, review, or publicize any product that does more than fading dark marks.

The Japanese 'Moist' Hada Labo Shirojyun Lotion

Method 1: Buy the Chinese Version

Hada Labo's parent company, Mentholatum, has made significant advances into the Chinese market. Therefore, many Hada Labo products are widely available in Chinese supermarkets and drugstores. These products are manufactured in China, although an analysis of the ingredient lists do not suggest any difference in formulation.

The Shirojyun Lotion is available in a 170ml size, and should cost around ¥100 to ¥150 ($15-23) in a physical store. On Mentholatum's Tmall store, it costs ¥120 ($18), although discounts are frequent. You can also buy the lotion as part of a set with the milk and/or the Shirojyun sheet masks.

Buying from Tmall is very straightforward if you are shipping to China. If you are located outside of China, Hong Kong or Macau, I would recommend using a different service to obtain this product. 

Method 2: Buy the Japanese version from within China

If you are looking to buy the Japanese version of Hada Labo, you could use a seller operating over Taobao. Note that the sellers I link to are ones that are highly rated and are that I have used before. I will not link to suspiciously cheap products or products with bad reviews.

There are 2 versions of Hada Labo's Shirojyun Lotion: Moist and Light. They are available from different sellers. The Moist version is sold through WAGF108 and the Light version is sold over Sainta. Both cost ¥60 ($9), and WAGF108 sells refill packs for ¥2 less, while Sainta does not. While this is cheaper than the official mainland version, one must realize that Japanese brands are coveted in China, therefore the brands' products are usually marked up extensively. The Hada Labo lotions cost around JPY850 (CNY50, $7.50) on Rakuten, so the products are not suspiciously cheap. 

The process of buying from Taobao is nearly identical to buying off Tmall. Only the reviewing process is slightly different. 

Method 3: Buy the Japanese version directly from Japan

I have not done this personally, but I have looked into it. Using Rakuten, you can buy Hada Labo products directly from Japan and have them shipped to China. Look for sellers that advertise SAL shipping, which is cheaper. China is in Shipping Zone 1, so it costs less to ship to China than most other countries, and shipping should take less time.

Review: Pechoin Glycerol No. 1

The Pechoin Glycerol No.1 Line is a set of 3 all-around gels that deeply moisturize and nourish the skin. This review will focus on the Vitamin C Nourishing version.

The Bottle

Product Information

English Name: Glycerol No. 1

Chinese Name: 甘油一号

Price: ¥28.50 ($4.41) for a set of 3

Weight: 3 x 170 g

Ingredient List from CosDNA

Ingredients List

Overview: This is a multi-purpose product that can be used anywhere on the body because it is very gentle. The 3 types have different purposes and active ingredients: Aloe moisturizes, Vitamin C nourishes, and Pearl Powder brightens.

How to Use: This can be used as an all-around moisturizer, a makeup remover, a hair pack/strengthener, a face mask, a DIY sheet mask essence, lip balm, or anything else that you can think of.

Review

This Pechoin Glycerin Gel is very low cost and lives up to its claims of being versatile, although I haven't used it for all of its claimed uses.

The lotion/gel is very thin and runny, and it is transparent. It does not absorb very easily, and I have to wipe off the excess product after a few minutes because it just does not sink in. However, after I wipe off the product, my skin is softer and smoother. 

The Product on a spatula

The version I have, the Vitamin C version, contains LAA, a kind of Vitamin C which can brighten skin and improve collagen production. However, it is low on the ingredient list, which means that it will have fewer benefits, and the bottle of this product is in no way opaque, so any LAA that is in the product will probably have been oxidized and rendered useless before you even use the product.

LAA aside, this product is really good at moisturizing and smoothing skin, and it really is a versatile, all-around product. It is gentle and has a short ingredients list, reducing the risk of irritation.

Buying Guide

Online

Pechoin Official Tmall

Physical Stores

Any large Chinese supermarket (Carrefour, Tesco, Walmart) or drugstore chain (Watsons, Mannings)

Review: Inoherb Ultra Hydra Cream

The Inoherb Ultra Hydra Cream is a lightweight cream that hydrates and moisturizes skin while softening and smoothing it.

Product Information

English Name: Ultra Hydra Cream
Chinese Name: 八倍凝水霜

Price: ¥39 ($6.03 at the time of writing)
Weight: 50g

Ingredients list from CosDNA

Overview: To be used after cleansing and toning, this cream hydrates and moisturizes with a blend of Aloe and Seaweed Extract.

How to use: In the morning and at night, place a small amount on 5 points of your skin and spread evenly. Wipe off excess after several minutes.

Review

I bought this cream immediately after experiencing positive results with the Inoherb Quadruple Herbal Extract cleanser. The Ultra Hydra Cream is from the low-cost 'Smooth Moisture' line which includes a basic cleanser, a toner lotion, an milk lotion, 2 creams and 2 sheet masks. I haven't used any other products from the line; I prefer to mix and match as I see fit, using different layers for different needs. 

The cream is very thin and is translucent, pushing the boundaries on what might be defined as a 'cream'. It has humectant ingredients and silicones to hydrate the skin, smooth the skin and provide an occlusive layer to prevent water loss.

The cream on a spatula

I have used 2 jars of the cream so far, and have had only positive results. The cream goes on very light, and goes well before sunscreen or a sleeping pack. The cream is gentle, doesn't irritate or clog, and also doesn't turn my T-zone into an oil slick.

Buying Guide

Online

Tmall (Recommended)

Inoherb Official Store

Physical Stores

Any large Chinese supermarket (Carrefour, Tesco, Walmart) or drugstore chain (Watsons, Mannings)

Review: Inoherb Watery Sun-Block Gel

The Inoherb Watery Sun Block Gel is a basic sunscreen for everyday usage. It is not water or sweat resistant.

The Bottle

Product Information

English Name: Watery Sun-Block Gel
Chinese Name: 水盈清透防晒露

Price: ¥42 ($6.49 at the time of writing)
Weight: 50g

Ingredient list from CosDNA

Ingredients List

Sunscreen Information

UV Protectors
Octocrylene (All UVB, some UVA)
Titanium Dioxide (All UVB, substantial UVA)
Avobenzone (All UVA, some UVB)
Octinoxate (All UVB, some UVA)

Sunscreen Rating
UVB: SPF 30+
UVA: PA+++

Chinese regulations prevent sunscreens from being labeled above SPF30+ and PA+++. In this case, PA+++ indicates a PPD rating of more than 8, like in Korea.

Herbs: Skullcap aids in ultraviolet protection, prevents sunburns, tanning and aging. Chamomile soothes and conditions while reducing discomfort caused by UV rays. Licorice brightens the skin

Description: This product contains a variety of sun filtering and scattering ingredients that can effectively block and absorb UVA and UVB, preventing damage caused by the sun. Tanning and damage is prevented, keeping skin elastic and healthy.

Review

I ran out of my usual sunscreen, and I decided to buy this from a local supermarket. I chose this product out of a number of different ones available for the following reasons:

• This sunscreen is of a good value
• Samples were available so I could test it
• It has the highest SPF and PA ratings allowed in China

Usually, after running out of a product, I would immediately buy a replacement, but Taobao hates me so my supply of Bioré Watery Gel was unavailable for less than ¥80. So I bought this.

This sunscreen has not disappointed me, and it is comparable to the ones endlessly raved about on the internet. Compared to the Bioré Watery Gel, it is much thicker, and it looks like a really thick sunscreen when it comes out of the bottle, but it applies really well, leaving only a minimal white cast that goes away almost immediately. It doesn't feel like much, or anything, and therefore it isn't 'intrusive' like American sunscreens.

The sunscreen on a spatula

The UV filters and blockers used in this sunscreen are adequate, although I personally am suspicious of Avobenzone due to its notorious instability. However, since it is stabilized here, I'm willing to let this pass, because not many Chinese sunscreens use better filters like the Tinosorbs or Uvinuls, which is strange because they are allowed here.

Finally, I looked around and I noticed that this Inoherb is often the only domestic supermarket brand that offers an SPF above 30 and a PA rating above a +++. This could simply be due to a poor availability in my area, but I looked on 一号店, and couldn't find many adequate sunscreens that weren't manufactured by Bioré, Sunplay, Loreal or Inoherb. However, sunscreens are being pushed into the marked rapidly, marked by a greater domestic selection, so it looks like this may change.

Buying Guide

Online Links

Tmall

Physical Stores

Any large Chinese supermarket (Carrefour, Tesco, Walmart) or drugstore chain (Watsons, Mannings)

美容护肤!

Review: Inoherb Lotus Hydration Cleansing Foam

The Inoherb Lotus Hydration Cleansing Foam is a pH balanced, soap-free foaming cleanser that gently cleanses the skin while preserving the acid mantle.

The 18g sample

Full sized bottle
(image from inoherb.com)

  

Product Information

English Name: Lotus Hydration Cleansing Foam
Chinese Name: 睡莲滢泽保湿洁面乳

Price: ¥68.00 ($10.51 at the time of writing)
Weight: 100g

Ingredient list is currently unavailable

Herbs: Lotus is referred to as the 'Goddess in the Water' and its herbal benefits have been recognized throughout China's history

Description: A soap-free formula gently cleanses the skin. Its foam, despite being soapless, penetrates the skin and cleans pores, oil and dead skin cells. Lotus extracts prevent the over-drying of skin.

Review

I got this cleanser in the form of an 18g sample from Inoherb as a part of their Chinese New Year promotions. I didn't think too much of it, because its foam was slightly inferior to the lather produced by my full sized cleanser. It was only when I discovered the importance of a cleanser's pH that I recognized its value.

This cleanser is part of Inoherb's high end Lotus Hydration line, and it is, like the rest of Inoherb's cleansers, the cheapest component. The rest of the line costs upwards of ¥100 ($15).

This cleanser is lighter and less thick than others, and it requires slightly more to produce a decent amount of foam:

The cleanser on a spatula

The cleanser lathers decently. Although it isn't as rich or dense as most cleansers, it is apparently very good for a soap-free/low pH cleanser:

The Lather

I personally tested this cleanser's pH, and it came out as 5.5. This is a very good result for a facial cleanser, as it is at the correct pH to both not disturb the acid mantle and also prepare the skin for the application of pH dependent actives. This cleanser is leaning on the expensive side, but another cleanser from Inoherb, the Lilium Essential Hydrating Cleanser, is also pH balanced and is only ¥35 ($5.41). However, the Lilium Cleanser does not foam up.

Buying Guide

Online Links

Inoherb Official Tmall store (Recommended)

Inoherb Website

Physical Stores

Any large Chinese supermarket (Carrefour, Tesco, Walmart) or drugstore chain (Watsons, Mannings)

Review: Dabao SOD Moisturizing Honey

Dabao SOD Moisturizing Honey is a supermarket brand moisturizer for general consumers. It utilizes the antioxidant enzyme Superoxide dismutase to benefit the skin.

The Product

Product Information

English Name: N/A
Chinese Name: 大宝SOD蜜
English Translation: Dabao SOD Moisturizing Honey

Price: ¥10.90 ($1.68 at the time of writing)
Weight: 100ml

Ingredients list from CosDNA

Overview: This cost-effective lotion deeply detoxifies and moisturizes.

Main Benefits and core selling points: Superoxide dismutase immediately detoxifies skin and fights toxins continuously while deeply moisturizing the skin. Vital nutrients are replenished, and the lotion is easily absorbed. This lotion is gentle and suitable for sensitive skin.

How to use: After cleansing, use a suitable amount of lotion and gently rub it onto the face. This lotion is suitable for use in the morning and evening.

Review

The Dabao SOD Moisturizing honey is a light lotion for first-step moisturizing. It is very basic and has added fragrance, although it is in no way strong or offensive.

The lotion is the consistency of a standard moisturizer and it sinks in very quickly, so waiting times between the application of this moisturizer and the next step in a routine are decreased.

I have been using the Dabao SOD Moisturizing honey for several months, and it is very basic but it performs as expected. It isn't irritating or clogging, but it doesn't provide any amazing benefits. It may be too light a moisturizer for drier areas such as Beijing or Xinjiang, but it can still be used as an initial layer before a heavier cream is applied on top of it.

The lotion on a spatula

This moisturizer is the most basic of Dabao's SOD moisturizer line, which includes a lighter spring/summer lotion with seaweed extracts, a collagen-infused lotion which smooths skin texture and makes skin more firm, and two heavier creams.

Buying Guide

Online Links

Dabao Official Tmall store (100 ml)

Dabao Official Tmall store (200 ml)

Physical Stores

Any large Chinese supermarket (Carrefour, Tesco, Walmart) or drugstore chain (Watsons, Mannings)